Domaine Tatsis Limnio '22

One of the most fascinating things about Greek wine is the number of ancient indigenous varieties that remain in cultivation. Limnio, a red grape originating on the island of Lemnos, was mentioned by writers including Homer and Hesiod and is considered one of Greece’s oldest documented varieties. Today, most of the remaining plantings are found in northern Greece, where Limnio produces aromatic, medium-bodied wines with red fruit, herbs, and relatively gentle tannins.

I visited brothers Periklis and Stergios Tatsis in Goumenissa in 2022, and I have been a strong supporter of their wines ever since. The family arrived in Goumenissa from Eastern Romilia in 1924 and began acquiring vineyards on the limestone hills surrounding the village. Periklis and Stergios took over from their father and produced their first vintage in 1996. Today, they farm roughly 14 hectares, certified organic since 1998 and cultivated biodynamically since 2002. Their approach in the cellar is equally uncompromising, relying on indigenous yeasts and avoiding commercial additives or unnecessary manipulation.

The 2022 Limnio comes from dry-farmed vines planted between 250 and 400 meters above sea level on sloping clay and sandy loam soils. The grapes were harvested in late September, destemmed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts under controlled temperatures, without the addition of enzymes, proteins, or other winemaking products. The wine was aged in barrel for six to eight months and bottled without fining, stabilization, or filtration.

This is a beautiful introduction to Limnio and classic to the wild side of the Tatsis style! High-toned aromas of red cherries, wild herbs, pepper, and earth. The palate is medium-bodied and savory, with supple tannins, fresh acidity, and a distinctly herbal finish. It is drinking beautifully now and would be excellent served slightly cool alongside lamb with rosemary or roasted mushrooms.